Pearls
About Pearls
Queen Elizabeth I adorned herself with hundred of natural Pearls in the 16th century. Today, natural Pearls are so rare they command prices in the 6-figure range. Luckily for the Pearl shopper Mikimoto developed a process to seed Pearls in 1922. These Pearls, called cultured, are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. If you aren't willing to sell the castle and imitation just isn't for you, then cultured Pearls are the way to go. Of course, the larger the Pearl, the more expensive the Pearl. Cultured Pearls come in four varieties:
- Freshwater—Freshwater Pearls are farmed in China. Improvements in the industry there have changed these Pearls from funky looking white seedpods into small 2mm to 6 mm Pearls nearing the quality of Akoya Pearls. Price remains good however, with a quality strand running less than $300.
- Akoya—these are the classic white with rose overtone Pearls. Farmed in Japan, they size from 2mm to 10mm and are consistently round with good luster and appealing color. A fine quality 16-inch 7mm Akoya necklace will price around $1,000.
- Tahitian—grown in black-lipped oysters, Tahitian Pearls exhibit a dramatic range of color (most famously black) and luster. These Pearls have iridescent overtones with names such as Peacock and Eggplant. Tahitian Pearls size from 7mm to 20 mm and a well matched, quality strand can price in the range of $20,000 to $50,000.
- South Sea—these are the biggest Pearls available; they get up to 22 mm in size and come in colors ranging from white, to silver, gold/cream and cream. These Pearls are farmed in Australia, Indonesia and Burma. Unlike Akoya and Tahitian Pearls, South Sea Pearls have a satiny mellow luster and are prized for their rarity more than their uniform coloring.
The ultimate value of a Pearl is predicated upon five elements: Color, Luster, Coating, Size and Shape. Before you purchase Pearls window-shop. Apply the five elements to a variety of Pearls. This way you will develop expertise at choosing quality Pearls.
Color
Pearls develop both a base color and a very subtle sheen called an overtone. The most popular combination of color and overtone has traditionally been the classic white with rose overtone. Also available are yellow overtones on white and cream, gold overtones on white, green and purple on black depending on the Pearl type. You will best see the overtone when light reflects onto the Pearls. When choosing Pearls look for even coloration with a pooling affect to the overtone. If choosing a paired piece (necklace, bracelet, earrings) check to see that each Pearl matches well in color and sheen.
Luster
Luster is so important in Pearls. A Pearl is grown when an oyster is seeded with a tiny particle. This particle develops into layers of calcium carbonate crystals (called the nacre). Light reflecting off these crystals creates a deep shine. A high quality Pearl will have a beautiful shine and reflective surface. Look at the best Pearls and a reflection of your face should appear in the luster.
Coating and Surface Quality
Luster depends on the amount of nacre formed on the seed. Coating thickness defines the quality of the nacre. A thick coating will produce a fine luster and a thin coating may weaken and crack. Hold a Pearl up to the light. If you can see a shadow interior to the Pearl (the seed) then the coating is thin and low quality.
Every Pearl has surface blemishes. Pearls with a relatively smooth surface produce the best shine. Look for Pearls where blemishes have been positioned closely to drill holes or settings. Pass by any Pearl with a blemish on the crown.
Size
When Pearls are set in a strand they are gradually gradated; smaller Pearls near the clasp and largest Pearl at the center. This is usually stated in a range such as 6.0 mm x 7.0 mm. (Pearls are always measured in millimeters at the diameter.)
Shape
OK everyone what shape is a Pearl? Round. Well, traditionally that is right. Other choices exist today (semi-round, baroque etc.) and personal preference will determine your choice. The main guidance here is to choose a strand that is consistent.
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